Filming Kits |
| Mini DVR1 Kit |
| DVX Bullet Package |
| HQR-1 Package |
| HQR-2 Package |
| ChaseCam Kit |
| V.I.O POV.1 |
| DVR Pro multi cam |
| Wireless Cameras |
Camera Mounts |
| Clamp/Bar Mounts |
| Helmet Mount |
| Accessories |
Bullet Cameras |
| Sony HQ2 580 |
| Sony HQ1 580 |
| Vari-Focal HQ1 |
| Pro 520 |
Digital Recorders |
| DVX |
| HQR-1 |
| HQR-2 |
| Chasecam PDR100 |
| XM-DVR Pro |
Extras |
| Microphones |
| Batteries |
| TFT Screens |
| Multi-Camera |
| Cables |
| Remote Controls |
| Lipstick Lenses |
General filming advice
We have put together a selection of hints and tips to make the most of your video clips.
If we have missed anything out, please get in touch with us info@fastfilms.co.uk.
Everyone has different experiences, so it's good to share them. This guide is mostly aimed at the novice to intermediate user.
You must note that this is a guide only, not a rule book!
We won't be held responsible if damage or injury occurs as a result of following this guide.
What will I need?
Tape – Mini DV Camcorder. This will generally give good picture quality, the downsides being the time taken to transfer to a pc if you are wanting to edit the clip, and also having to change tapes every 60 minutes. I personally prefer Sony, simply because you can use a LANC remote control (from our shop), that allows an easy one touch button to record and then switch off recording as you wish, saving battery and tape life. Some have useful features like optical stability, but generally these features can struggle when filming in car. If you only ever plan to keep your filming very basic then a cheap mini DV camcorder will be fine. However, it may be worth giving yourself the option of using a bullet camera at a later date (see below), to use one of these your camcorder MUST have AV in. Sadly non of Sonys latest range (2007) of mini DV tape Handycams have AV in.
Mini DVD – DVD Camcorder. Generally not used for car or on bike filming, due to a greater susceptibility to loss of picture through vibration and a higher purchase cost for the same features. The only real advantage they have is easy editing and being able to take the recorded dvd from the camcorder and putting it straight into your dvd player.
Hard Drive – Hard Drive camcorders are starting to become more established but are totally unsuitable for in-car recording.
Picture quality will be good, as will convenience, however, they DO NOT LIKE ANY VIBRATION!
Multimedia devices that have a built in screen generally have loads of additional features i.e. MP3 player, can playback and record video etc.
Solid State – Camcorder or camera i.e. ATC5000 wireless helmet camera.
This is the future for in car recorders, as they are small, light weight and without moving parts so not really affected by vibration. They record onto memory cards i.e Compact Flash, which come in various sizes and are getting very affordable now. Downsides are that as recording quality improves so they use up their memory very quickly. Quality will improve greatly over the next few years.
Editing the footage and transferring it to a pc is quick and easy too.
Camera Mount - A camera suction mount will allow you more flexibility to position the camcorder where you would like, both inside and outside the car. A roll cage mount or headrest mount is perhaps more secure for longer periods of time, but more limited in angles you can achieve.
This is a really important decision to make. You must make sure that your camera mount is suitable for the camera you are using and for the type of filming you will be doing. The more expensive camera mounts will give you greater adjustability and more stability.
It's always recommended to use a back-up tether on any type of camera mount should the worst case scenario come to life the the camera mount lets go.
What will I need for better results?
Digital Camcorder, ideally with A/V inputs (to allow the option of using a bullet camera) and an optional wide angled lens. Most camcorders these days do not have AV inputs and so a solid state digital recorder would be the best choice using a high quality bullet camera.
We carry quite a few digital recorders. The best ones tend to be the more expensive ones but you can still get really good results with an entry level package. Generally, the price is directly related to video quality.
Lenses - The two images below show the same shot through a camcorder mounted on the headrest, firstly without, and then with a wide angled lens. You can see that with the wide angle you can get more in shot, and would be able to capture more of the driver. Mounting the camera on the rear window or rear headrest will also allow more of the cabin area to be captured in shot.
 |
| Standard fitted Canon camcorder lens Same camcorder with optional wide angled lens |
Bullet Camera - Often known as a lipstick camera due to it's size. A bullet camera connects to a digital video recorder through the A/V in port. It has it's own power supply, usually running off AA batteries or the car battery, and comes with its own microphone that can be positioned a distance away from the lens. Due to their small size, lack of weight, weather resistance and wide angle, bullet cameras can give better results than using a camcorder only. Choosing a high quality bullet camera along with a solid state digital recorder can be difficult because of the wide range available. We're more than happy to talk you through the options and point you in the right direction.
Editing software - This often comes with a camcorder, common programs used are from Pinnacle, Adobe or Microsoft. Features such as 'picture in picture' are worth looking out for to give multiple views at once. We prefer using Pinnacle Studio or Sony Vegas , and all of the video clips made by ourselves on this site were made using these programs.
Windows XP users can use Windows movie maker for free, which is a good basic programme, but you will soon find the limits of this and want more powerful features. IMovie which is supplied on MAC operating systems is also very good.
Adobes Premier Pro software is hugely powerful, used by many semi professional companies, but is both expensive and difficult to master at first. Therefore, many begin with Adobe Premier LE or Adobe Elements, have most of the important features for a fraction of the cost.
Microphone - If you're not planning on using music as an audio track to your video then you will need a good microphone in order to capture the sound. Microphones built-in to most camcorders will only do a reasonable job during high speed filming. Our bullet camera kits now come with a unique "V.Gain" (variable gain) microphone which has a small controller on it to adjust the amount of audio being recorded. If you're using a camcorder to do your filming then check and see if it has an input for an external mic. If it does then you'll be surprised at the difference in quality when using one.
Try and get your microphone out of the way of the wind! Wind noise spoils a good video so try and position it to avoid this. Open topped cars are notoriously difficult to record good audio and so using a high quality mic is all the more important.
Digital camera - Photos edited into the movie can be effective. Even a relatively cheap digital camera (under £200) will give good results, certainly more than enough for web quality video. Most camcorders have the ability to take still images.
Spare battery - Very frustrating to have made the time and film to find the battery on your camcorder is flat, or won't last more than 20 minutes. Well worth investing in the largest capacity battery you can, that way you know you will have enough power all day. Most of our digital recorder systems can be powered externally. We find that most of our customers prefer to hook their system into the vehicle's 12v supply taking, away the worry of batteries and recharging. Some racing cars only have small batteries with no alternator, we can supply extended batteries for our recording kits in these cases.
Things to consider before filming.
Check the weather forecast is suitable for the effect you want to create. If using a tape format take care the temperatures are not too cold. Electrical components can be damaged by the elements and sunlight, follow care instructions given by the manufacturers. Be aware that air rushing past the camera equipment is likely to make things cold even in a fairly warm climate, so warm batteries in your pocket before use. Rubber suction
mounts will not stick as well in the cold weather, again warm them first.
Clean your car inside and out, firstly to get it looking at it's best and secondly so your sucttion mount will cling to your car without risk of damage, or scratching the paint.
We have never experienced any damage before by following this point in particular.
If using camera suction mounts, always consider using a safety tether, especially when externally mounting your camera. Tethers are cheap and could potentially save you a fortune in repair bills. Using a tether will also help to reassure scrutineers that your equipment is secured well.
Time of week/year - A hot summer Bank Holiday is unlikely to be the best time to carry
out filming unless at an event, everywhere is simply too busy. Mid week is best for many types of filming.
Location - pretty scenery works well, dual carriageway doesn't!
Private roads or track will allow you to legally film at higher speeds and risky manoeuvres. Have an idea about what sort of shot you would like to get before you leave. Having a "patient" interested assistant will allow you more choice of shot and possibly
a better finished result. *This is often NOT your partner! Even better if the other person has a vehicle they will allow you to mount your camera on. Make sure you have remembered everything you might need - spare tape/disc, batteries (charged!), lens cleaner, tripod, mounts, remote control, clean rag, kitchen towel and water to clean and then dry surface before using suction mount etc.
Filming
We have found that filming as much as possible works well, to give you plenty of choice of clips when editing. We still find that from an hours filming we can only expect to get 5 minutes of good useable footage. For the most interesting results, move the mounting position of your camcorder often. A selection of shots is more interesting than just one. Most effective shots are when the camera is mounted very low to help give an illusion of speed, or pointing at the wheels, or behind the car.
Make sure you check your camera is still recording frequently, and play back a few seconds of video to be sure your microphone is still working etc. Check your lens often for debris, water, flies etc. Don't take too many risks. Filming can make a normally sensible driver suddenly go mad in an effort to get exciting footage! Be aware of this.....!
Safety
Safety when filming is of great importance for your personal, legal and financial health! Some of this may be obvious, but no harm in mentioning it again. The below is NOT a comprehensive list, and should not be regarded as a legal document, more as guidance. If in any doubt then consult appropriate authorities. For safety advice please contact us if you have any query about using equipment for particular purposes.
The next six points has been kindly contributed by a customer, who is a retired BBC cameraman.
Legal
When on public roads you need to be aware of personal privacy of others, they may not be happy to be the star of your movie! If you film children (although I can't think why you would?) you may need to ask permission from a parent or guardian. Some areas, particularly MOD may prohibit photography of any kind, and you risk property confiscation and prosecution.
When on track you need to check if you need to sign a permission form to film or photograph. The form usually means you are agreeing to non use of your films for commercial purposes. Trackdays strictly prohibit the use of timing equipment as it will invalidate their vital insurance. Camcorders all have a built in timer when filming (to show how much tape remains), now whilst this is obvious you are well advised not to mention this at a trackday, or on a forum afterwards, or you may find you won't be welcome at future events.
Some individuals may not wish to have their number plates shown, be aware of this, and be prepared to mask this when editing, or not to show their car at all. I personally don't have an issue with this, but if others have noticed their car in a video shown on Fast Films, and they would like it removed then please get in touch.
Obey the rules and speed limits of the road and track, have courtesy for others.
Personal and Financial
To many people, the thought of attaching an expensive camera to a fast moving car may seem a little alien! However, I have yet to have any problems with cameras falling off, and much of our range have been thoroughly tested on track at high speeds. I put this down to -
Using the right piece of equipment for the right shot - you can't expect a small suction mount to support a large professional camcorder on the door of a dirty car at 150mph, it won't stay there for long!
Make sure the surface you are attaching the mount to is clean, dry, solvent and grease free. It is a good idea to bring a selection of soft, lint free cloths and a bottle of water to wash away any dust from panels you may wish to attach the camera to. Take care not to scratch your paintwork.
Any equipment you are using must be securely attached, ideally using a tether which is attached to an item of sturdy bodywork if outside - door frame, boot, wing mirror (depending on design). The same applies if attached to the inside, you don't want a 3kg camera and mount to become loose when braking hard!
Trackday companies may well insist on a fixed mount instead of a suction mount - check.
The above few sentences are vital to prevent damage and injury to yourself, your equipment, your car and others who may be following.
Make sure the equipment is well looked after, with all moving parts moving freely, screw threads clean, and suction cups cleaned regularly with a very mild solution of lukewarm soapy water, and then dried thoroughly. (The dishwasher is not suitable!)
Check your equipment regularly when filming for stone chips/mud or flies on the lens, and most importantly to check the mounting is secure. Just because your mount has previously lasted for an hour on the exterior of the car in the past doesn't mean it will always do this, many factors can affect the grip of a mount. So check, and check again, every minute if you have to for piece of mind!
Be aware that a camera attached to your car will attract attention, and can be enough to distract other drivers - be aware of their driving.
If you are stopping between filming shots and moving aware from the car, be sure to hide the equipment away from prying eyes. Think of your car's health - filming at high pace will increase the operating temperatures of your vehicle's water, oil and brakes. Having finished a shot allow yourself a cool down drive of a mile or two, ideally with minimal brake and accelerator use. Once you have come to a stop, don't use the handbrake, instead, put the car into gear and switch off the engine. Lifting the bonnet will help excess heat to escape. Check your fluid levels regularly, and maintain your car in good working order. When you restart, remember you left the car in gear!
Everyone likes to have impressive footage to show others, and the temptation is to drive as hard as possible to get this. Don't exceed the limits of the law, your car or ability to do this! Try mounting your camera low down, in a variety of angles, with an external microphone mounted in the footwell to get exciting footage at more sensible speeds.